For a proper cocido madrileño in Madrid, book Malacatín in La Latina, La Gran Tasca in Chamberí, Taberna La Carmencita near Justicia or the upstairs rooms at Lhardy. Malacatín, La Gran Tasca and Taberna La Carmencita sit at the €€ price level, and Lhardy is €€€. At Malacatín, order one full cocido for two people.
The short list
6 places, in the order they appear below.
- 1MalacatinOne full cocido shared between twoPrice: €€La Latina
- 2La Gran TascaTwo-day cocido at a winter lunchPrice: €€Chamberí
- 3Taberna La CarmencitaWeekly cocido, call aheadPrice: €€Justicia
- 4LhardyCocido upstairs, consommé at the counterPrice: €€€Carrera de San Jerónimo
- 5Casa RicardoCallos at an early lunchPrice: €€Chamberí
- 6Casa CiriacoGallina en pepitoriaPrice: €€Calle Mayor
Where is the best cocido madrileño in Madrid?
Malacatín has served cocido since 1895 in a cramped, tiled room. La Gran Tasca takes two days and fifteen ingredients to build its version. At both, the stew still reaches the table in the traditional order, on shared tables at one and white cloths at the other.
Old photos, bottles and bullfighting prints cover the walls at Malacatín, and diners squeeze in at shared tables. The full cocido runs to three courses: chickpeas, meats, cabbage. Most appetites give up before the end. Split one between two, and book ahead, because the dining room is tiny.
Malacatin
Hours: Mon–Tue 11:00–17:00 · Wed–Sat 11:00–23:00 · Sun 11:00–17:00
Address: C. de la Ruda, 5, Centro, 28005 Madrid
La Gran Tasca still lays white tablecloths, and its career waiters have worked the floor for years. Go for the full cocido at lunch in the colder months. The soup arrives first, then the rest of the vuelcos in their proper order.
La Gran Tasca
Hours: Mon–Sun 13:00–18:00
Address: Calle de Sta Engracia, 161, Chamberí, 28003 Madrid
When can you eat cocido madrileño in Madrid?
Plan cocido for winter lunches, and check the day before you go. La Gran Tasca fills with its neighbourhood regulars through the colder months, and the full cocido there is served at midday. Taberna La Carmencita only cooks it once a week, so call ahead to catch it.
La Carmencita is a tiled taberna that opened in 1854. Its restoration paid attention to both the history and the produce, and the kitchen sticks to seasonal classics made with organic ingredients. On days without cocido, the breakfast and the menu del día still make the trip worthwhile.
Taberna La Carmencita
Hours: Mon–Tue 12:30–17:00, 20:00–00:30 · Wed–Thu 12:30–00:30 · Fri–Sat 12:30–01:00 · Sun 12:30–00:30
Address: C. de la Libertad, 16, Centro, 28004 Madrid
Is Lhardy worth it for cocido in Madrid?
Lhardy is a gilded house from 1839 near Carrera de San Jerónimo, and its upstairs salons look frozen in the nineteenth century. The kitchen sends out cocido next to classic game dishes and the croquetas it is known for. Old Madrid families treat the upstairs as their own dining room.
If that sounds like too much, stand at the ground floor counter, pour yourself a cup of consommé from the silver samovar and add a couple of croquetas.
Lhardy
Hours: Mon–Sat 13:00–00:00 · Sun 13:00–17:00
Address: Cra de S. Jerónimo, 8, Centro, 28014 Madrid
How much does cocido madrileño cost in Madrid?
Malacatín, La Gran Tasca and Taberna La Carmencita are all €€, and Lhardy is the €€€ option. A full cocido means three courses in one sitting, and Malacatín’s portion is big enough for two people to share one. For a light bite, Lhardy’s counter does the job, and Taberna La Carmencita’s menu del día is the fallback on days the weekly cocido isn’t on.
Where else to eat Madrid stews when cocido is off the menu?
When three courses sound like too much, two old tabernas in Chamberí and Centro cook other Madrid classics. Casa Ricardo in Chamberí revolves around callos a la madrileña. Casa Ciriaco on Calle Mayor is known for gallina en pepitoria and callos.
Casa Ricardo has been open since 1935 in a narrow room, its walls covered with bullfighting photographs and signed portraits. The callos are slow cooked and rich, with oxtail and migas beside them. They sell out. Go early for lunch.
Casa Ricardo
Hours: Mon–Sun 13:00–17:00
Address: C. de Fernando el Católico, 31, Chamberí, 28015 Madrid
Writers, painters and politicians have eaten at Casa Ciriaco since the late nineteenth century, in a plain, old fashioned dining room. The house is known for its gallina en pepitoria, and regulars come back for the callos too. Ask for a table in the back room.
Casa Ciriaco
Hours: Mon 10:00–16:00 · Tue–Sat 10:00–23:00 · Sun 10:00–16:00
Address: Calle Mayor, 84, Centro, 28013 Madrid
Cocido takes a whole lunch, so keep the afternoon light. Book ahead for the small rooms, Malacatín above all, and call La Carmencita to check which day it serves cocido. Malacatín, Casa Ciriaco, Lhardy and La Carmencita are all in the Centro district. La Gran Tasca and Casa Ricardo are in Chamberí, so treat them as a separate lunch.
