Taberna Sal Grosso

Taberna Sal Grosso is a petiscos tasca near Santa Apolónia, a compact room with plenty of character where young cooks turn out careful, generously portioned dishes. The menu follows what the market brings in, though clams cooked with pork and dishes left to cook slowly come back again and again, and the wines come mostly from modest Portuguese producers. Seating is so limited that a meal there feels close to eating in a private living room.

People who live in Lisbon hand the choices over to the staff and share a spread of petiscos across the table instead of each person taking a main. Reserve ahead: with so few seats, places go quickly, and tables get turned for new guests.