Forno Campo de’ Fiori bakes on site from a corner of the square where the market runs, its ovens fired up before sunrise and its customers moving through so briskly that no proper line takes shape. Market stallholders, builders and parents taking children to school make up the morning trade, and the trays are cleared and restocked right up to lunch.
Head for the filled pizza bianca at the smaller counter set just off the square, round a corner, because it is made there and not in the main bakery. Ask for the bread to be split open with mortadella packed inside, then eat it on your feet right there while the warmth is still in it. The pizza bianca here leaves the oven on long paddles, salty and blistered, and is passed over in paper, still scorching. Inside the bakery it is also weighed out plain or with tomato.