What to do at the Prater in Vienna, and is it free to enter?

Vienna's Prater is a public park anyone can walk into. The Riesenrad, the Hauptallee, and food and drinks nearby.

Boiled beef in broth in a copper pot seen from above

The Prater is a 6-square-kilometre public park in Vienna’s 2nd district. Past the Riesenrad there’s the Hauptallee, a 4.5-kilometre tree-lined avenue, a beer garden pouring Czech lager under chestnut trees, and a handful of good Leopoldstadt restaurants a short walk away.

How the Prater became a public park

When Joseph II opened the former imperial hunting grounds to the public, his invitation went out to “all honest folk”, which made the Prater one of Europe’s first large public recreation spaces. Plenty of Viennese still come here every day. With only an hour to spare, walk a stretch of the avenue after the wheel. You’ll see how the city actually uses its park.

What to see at the Prater and close by

Start with the Riesenrad, a wheel from 1897 that still turns, with Vienna spread out below the cabins. Then walk the Hauptallee to see the park itself. For a building as strange as the wheel is old, cross into the 3rd district to the Kunsthaus Wien, about 11 minutes away on foot. Hundertwasser’s museum there occupies a former furniture factory.

Prater & Riesenrad. British engineers Walter Bassett and Harry Hitchins built the wheel in 1897 to mark Emperor Franz Joseph’s 50 years on the throne. At just under 65 metres, it is the oldest Ferris wheel still operating anywhere. The 1945 bombing destroyed about a fifth of Vienna’s buildings. The wheel came through, and the Viennese took its survival as a promise that the city would recover too. Abroad, it became famous through Carol Reed’s 1949 film The Third Man, and the film’s zither theme has followed it ever since.

Culture

Prater & Riesenrad

Hours: Mon–Sun 09:00–22:45

Address: Gaudeegasse 1, 1020 Wien, Austria

Kunsthaus Wien. Hundertwasser and architect Peter Pelinka rebuilt an 1892 Thonet furniture factory as a five-storey gallery. It opened in 1991 as the only permanent museum devoted to Hundertwasser’s work. Inside, the floors undulate under your feet. Trees grow out of the window frames. Hundertwasser considered straight lines a false order, so you won’t find any here.

Culture

Kunsthaus Wien - Hundertwasser

Hours: Mon–Sun 10:00–18:00

Address: Untere Weißgerberstraße 13, 1030 Wien, Austria

Where to eat near the Prater

Inside the park, Schweizerhaus serves pork knuckle and Czech lager in a beer garden. For a proper dinner, walk up Praterstraße: a neighbourhood restaurant and an Italian-Japanese kitchen share the street. The Vorgartenmarkt has a ramen counter for a quick lunch, and a bakery on Löwengasse does breakfast before a day in the park.

Place Kind of place Walk from the Riesenrad Best for
Schweizerhaus Beer garden about 9 min Pork knuckle and Czech lager outdoors
Edlingers Tempel Neighbourhood restaurant about 10 min Tafelspitz, crispy pork belly
Cucina Itameshi Italian-Japanese restaurant about 8 min Handmade pasta, a booked dinner
Mochi Ramen Bar Market counter about 13 min Miso ramen
Leon 29 Coffee & Bakery Café and bakery about 15 min Breakfast and pastries

Schweizerhaus. The Kolarik family has run this beer garden for a century and imports Budvar directly from the Czech brewery. Order the Stelze (roast pork knuckle) and split it between two. You’re here for the crackling skin. Regulars skip the standard glass and ask for the larger carafe.

Eat· €€

Schweizerhaus

Hours: Mon–Sun 11:00–23:00

Address: Prater 116, 1020 Wien, Austria

Edlingers Tempel. The cooking is generous and the wine list short. Their Tafelspitz simmers longer than usual and arrives noticeably tender, while the pork belly comes out properly crisp. Go on a weekday if you want a calmer table.

Eat· €€

Edlingers Tempel

Hours: Mon closed · Tue–Sat 11:00–15:00, 18:00–23:00 · Sun closed

Address: Praterstraße 56, 1020 Wien, Austria

Cucina Itameshi. The team behind Mochi cooks itameshi, the Japanese word for Italian food, inside the Dogenhof on Praterstraße. Expect open fire, XO sauces and handmade pasta. Start with the miso butter bread, then order the udon cacio e pepe. In summer the courtyard tables fill quickly, so book ahead.

Eat· €€€

Cucina Itameshi

Hours: Mon–Sat 12:00–23:00 · Sun closed

Address: Praterstraße 70, 1020 Wien

Mochi Ramen Bar. Mochi’s stripped-back sibling runs from a stand at the Vorgartenmarkt. The menu is short and there are no reservations. Every morning the kitchen makes its broth from scratch, and the miso ramen shows off that long-simmered stock best. The noodles keep their bite to the end. Come at opening or in the mid-afternoon lull, when the queue is shortest.

Eat· €€

Mochi Ramen Bar

Hours: Mon–Sat 11:30–22:00 · Sun closed

Address: Vorgartenmarkt Stand 12-29, 1020 Wien

Leon 29 Coffee & Bakery. Two women run this small Landstraße bakery, named after its house number, and they bake through the early hours. From early morning the counter holds fresh pastries and warm breakfast plates, and coffee is made to order. Weekdays bring regulars on their way to work. At weekends, families take the tables.

Eat· Landstraße · €

Leon 29 Coffee & Bakery

Hours: Mon–Fri 07:00–18:00 · Sat–Sun 08:30–17:00

Address: Löwengasse 29, 1030 Wien, Austria

Where to have a drink near the Prater in the evening

After the park, you have two options for a drink. Fluc, at Praterstern, is a few minutes from the wheel; depending on the night it runs as a bar, a concert room or a club. Zoku’s seventh-floor rooftop looks over the Prater and serves cocktails with Mediterranean snacks. You don’t need to be a guest at Zoku to go up.

Fluc. The bookings lean toward noise, experimental electronics and acts the city’s commercial clubs pass on. In summer the outdoor area, Fluc Wanne, turns into a neighbourhood meeting point, somewhere to drink outside late on a warm night with good music. Indoors and outdoors run separate programmes, so check both before you pick a night.

Live· €€

Fluc

Hours: Mon–Wed 18:00–04:00 · Thu–Sat 18:00–06:00 · Sun 17:00–02:00

Address: Praterstern 5, 1020 Wien, Austria

Zoku Vienna Rooftop. Thursday’s Sundown Sounds sessions are the best time to go. There’s live music with the Prater below, and far fewer tourists than on other Vienna rooftops. A seasonal events calendar keeps the place busy through the warmer months, so check the programme the week before.

Live· €

Zoku Vienna Rooftop

Hours: Mon–Sun 07:00–21:30

Address: Perspektivstr. 6/7th Floor, 1020 Wien

Everything here is within about 15 minutes’ walk of the Riesenrad. Book Cucina Itameshi in advance, especially for a summer courtyard table. Mochi Ramen Bar takes no bookings, so keep it for a lunch with some slack around it. Between meals, walk a long stretch of the Hauptallee.

Written by Tan (tantrionfi). Places suggested by people who live in Vienna. How we choose places

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