Where to eat in Trastevere, Rome, from supplì to tripe

Where to eat in Trastevere, Rome: Supplì Roma and Trapizzino for street food, Antica Pesa for pasta, L'Osteria della Trippa for offal, and six more picks.

Veal saltimbocca with sage and a side of sautéed chicory at an outdoor table

For a first dinner in Trastevere, sit down at Antica Pesa or L’Osteria della Trippa for Roman pasta and quinto quarto. Between meals, eat at Supplì Roma and Trapizzino. These ten places are in and around the neighbourhood, and none is more than about twelve minutes on foot from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere.

The short list

10 places, in the order they appear below.

  1. 1Supplì RomaSupplì standing upWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 5 min
  2. 2Trapizzino | TrastevereFilled pizza trianglesWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 4 min
  3. 3L’Elementare - TrastevereThin pizza and fried startersWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 5 min
  4. 4Antica PesaRefined Roman pastaWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 6 min
  5. 5Osteria La QuerciaSeasonal pasta outdoorsWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 10 min
  6. 6L'Osteria della TrippaTripe and offalWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 6 min
  7. 7La GattabuiaCucina poveraWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 11 min
  8. 8CeiboArgentine empanadasWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 7 min
  9. 9Donts in TrastevereSmashburgersWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 2 min
  10. 10BoccioneKosher bakeryWalk from Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere: about 12 min

Where to get street food in Trastevere?

For street food in Trastevere, start with a classic supplì at Supplì Roma, a standing-room counter. At Trapizzino on Piazza Trilussa, the pizza triangles are filled with Roman recipes such as braised oxtail or meatballs, and at L’Elementare the supplì di pasta swaps the rice for pasta. All three are within five minutes’ walk of the piazza.

Supplì Roma is a standing-room counter, and you come for the supplì: rice with tomato sauce and melted mozzarella, breaded and fried until golden. There are no tables. Eat it on the spot, and add a slice of pizza if one croquette isn’t enough.

Eat· €

Supplì Roma

Hours: Mon–Sat 10:00–21:00 · Sun closed

Address: Via di S. Francesco a Ripa, 137, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

Stefano Callegari invented the trapizzino, a triangle of pizza filled with traditional Roman recipes such as braised oxtail, meatballs or tongue in green sauce. The classic to order is the pollo alla cacciatora, paired with a craft beer. It gets messy.

Eat· €

Trapizzino | Trastevere

Hours: Mon 12:00–00:00 · Tue–Thu 12:00–01:00 · Fri–Sat 12:00–02:00 · Sun 12:00–01:00

Address: Piazza Trilussa, 46, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

L’Elementare makes Roman-style pizza, thin and crispy, and the fried starters are as much a reason to come as the pizza. Its supplì di pasta swaps the rice for tonnarelli cacio e pepe or fettuccine al ragù.

Eat· €

L’Elementare - Trastevere

Hours: Mon–Tue 18:00–23:00 · Wed–Thu 12:00–23:00 · Fri–Sat 12:00–00:00 · Sun 12:00–23:00

Address: Via Benedetta, 23, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

Which restaurants in Trastevere are best for Roman pasta?

Antica Pesa serves carbonara, cacio e pepe and amatriciana with a refined touch, alongside slow-cooked meats. For seasonal pasta at an outdoor table, Osteria La Quercia sits in a quiet little square close to Campo de’ Fiori, about ten minutes’ walk away.

Antica Pesa is a historic trattoria. Most tables order the cacio e pepe. The standout Roman dish is the schiaffoni all’amatriciana: giant pasta tubes that scoop up the crispy guanciale sauce in a way thinner shapes can’t.

Eat· €€€

Antica Pesa

Hours: Mon–Sat 19:30–23:00 · Sun closed

Address: Via Garibaldi, 18, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

Osteria La Quercia cooks with seasonal ingredients from small farmers and organic producers, so the menu changes through the year. Cacio e pepe, amatriciana and spaghetti alla Nerano share the list with meat dishes like tender veal cutlets.

Eat· €€

Osteria La Quercia

Hours: Mon–Sat 12:00–15:30, 19:00–23:30 · Sun 12:00–15:30, 19:00–23:00

Address: Piazza della Quercia, 23, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Where can you try tripe and offal in Trastevere?

For tripe and offal, go to L’Osteria della Trippa, the place on our list for quinto quarto: the Roman tradition of cooking offal, tripe and the less prized cuts once kept for butchers’ families. La Gattabuia, in a former papal prison, also puts coratella and tripe on its house antipasto board.

Tripe dishes at L’Osteria della Trippa include tripe with pecorino, with beans or fried, alongside Jewish-style artichokes and coratella. Portions are generous. Start with the fried tripe, crisp strips finished with pecorino and fresh mint. If you’re nervous about offal, it’s the easiest way in.

Eat· €€

L'Osteria della Trippa

Hours: Mon–Thu 18:30–22:30 · Fri–Sat 12:00–14:30, 18:30–22:30 · Sun closed

Address: Via Goffredo Mameli, 15/16, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

La Gattabuia cooks cucina povera, the thrifty, inventive food of Roman working-class families, inside a former 17th-century papal prison. The house antipasto is a board of six Roman classics, among them coratella, tripe and grilled mortadella. When the tonnarelli cacio e pepe with crispy zucchini blossoms is on, the blossoms bring crunch to the cheese.

Eat· €€

La Gattabuia

Hours: Mon–Fri 19:00–23:30 · Sat–Sun 13:00–15:00, 19:00–23:30

Address: Via del Porto, 1, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

What else is worth eating in and near Trastevere?

When you want a break from pasta, Ceibo bakes Argentine empanadas by Piazza Belli and Donts serves smashburgers on Via di San Cosimato. Further out, in the Jewish Ghetto, the kosher bakery Boccione sells crostata and pizza ebraica from a shopfront with no sign.

Ceibo bakes its empanadas in the oven instead of frying them, and fills them generously. The clásicas are chicken, beef and vegetable; the especiales rotate day to day. Alfajores and Argentine wine round things off. Order a mix and share it across the table.

Eat· Trastevere · €

Ceibo

Hours: Mon closed · Tue–Sat 11:00–23:00 · Sun 11:00–22:30

Address: Via dell'Olmetto, Piazza Giuseppe Gioacchino Belli, 24, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

At Donts, order the Dirty Donts: a double patty smashed so thin the edges go crisp, with house mayonnaise to balance the salt.

Eat· €€

Donts in Trastevere

Hours: Mon–Sun 12:00–02:00

Address: Via di S. Cosimato, 4, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

Boccione has baked in the same small shopfront since 1815. Two things justify the walk. One is the ricotta and sour cherry crostata, sold by weight and cut fresh; eat it within a day or two. The other is pizza ebraica, a dense sweet bread studded with almonds, candied fruit and pine nuts.

Eat· Jewish Ghetto · €

Boccione

Hours: Mon–Thu 07:30–19:00 · Fri 07:30–14:30 · Sat closed · Sun 07:30–17:30

Address: Via del Portico d'Ottavia, 1, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Most of these places are a short walk from the piazza, so a supplì or trapizzino early in the evening fits easily before a sit-down dinner later on. Check each card for opening days before you go, and book ahead at the restaurants with table service.

Written by Tan (tantrionfi). Places suggested by people who live in Rome. How we choose places

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