Best breakfast in Lisbon at neighbourhood bakeries and cafés

The best breakfast in Lisbon is at neighbourhood bakeries and cafés: croissants, cinnamon rolls and eggs on sourdough in Arroios, Estrela, São Bento and Graça.

Buttered toast strips and a tall glass of milky coffee on a marble counter

The best breakfasts in Lisbon are at small neighbourhood bakeries and cafés: croissants at Do Beco in Arroios, cinnamon rolls at Luli’s in Estrela or Rolls Duo in Príncipe Real, and plates of eggs at Albi in São Bento or Etma in Campo de Ourique. Most of these places close by mid or late afternoon.

The short list

9 places, in the order they appear below.

  1. 1Do BecoCroissants, eggs on sourdough, a loaf to take homeArroios
  2. 2Rolls DuoCinnamon rolls and the weekly specialPríncipe Real
  3. 3Luli's Bakery CaféA large cinnamon roll to shareEstrela
  4. 4Maya Cakery And CafeHomemade cake with a coffee standingPenha de França
  5. 5AlbiEggs with a downhill viewSão Bento
  6. 6Etma BakeryBabka buns and filter coffeeCampo de Ourique
  7. 7Augusto LisboaA brunch set below the Graça viewpointGraça
  8. 8The Coffee CornerA quiet specialty coffeeCampo de Ourique
  9. 9Hello, KristofOpen sandwiches and a long flat whiteSantos

Where do Lisboetas buy breakfast pastries?

Do Beco in Arroios makes croissants and cinnamon rolls. Rolls Duo, on the climb to Príncipe Real, makes almost nothing but cinnamon rolls. Luli’s sits on the slope below the Estrela basilica. Over in Penha de França, Maya bakes its cakes in small batches every day.

Do Beco baked bread for restaurants before opening as a slow fermentation bakery. Brothers António and Lourenço Mello run it with their partner Diego Haupenthal. Besides croissants, pain au chocolat and cinnamon rolls, the kitchen cooks eggs several ways on sourdough. Neighbours often clear the pastry cases well before noon. Take a loaf home if you can.

Eat· Arroios · €€

Do Beco

Hours: Mon–Sun 08:00–18:00

Address: R. Passos Manuel 106A, 1150-053 Lisboa, Portugal

Sisters Veronika and Albena Petkova run this narrow shop, and the counter doubles as their production bench. The classic roll has a cheese and vanilla filling. The weekly special changes every week: pistachio, biscoff, matcha, red velvet. Once a flavour comes down, it rarely returns.

Eat· Príncipe Real · €

Rolls Duo

Hours: Mon 10:00–18:00 · Tue closed · Wed–Sun 10:00–18:00

Address: Calçada Eng. Miguel Pais 18, 1200-174 Lisboa, Portugal

Luli’s is a small family-run bakery café with a handful of soft seats and a counter where people stay longer than they planned. The cinnamon rolls come in two sizes. Under its thick layer of cream cheese frosting, the large one feeds two. The small one leaves room for a second.

Eat· Estrela · €

Luli's Bakery Café

Hours: Mon closed · Tue–Fri 08:30–17:00 · Sat 09:00–17:00 · Sun closed

Address: Calçada da Estrela 60, 1200-665 Lisboa, Portugal

Order whole cakes about two days ahead at Maya, a tiny cakery that is really a baking operation with a counter attached, so you drink your coffee standing or take it away. Homemade cakes and slices come out in small batches each day. On weekday mornings the customers are mostly from the surrounding streets.

Eat· Penha de França · €

Maya Cakery And Cafe

Hours: Mon closed · Tue–Sat 08:30–17:00 · Sun 09:00–17:00

Address: Rua da Penha de França 220A, 1170-299 Lisboa, Portugal

Where can you sit down for eggs and a proper breakfast in Lisbon?

For a full plate rather than a pastry, three small rooms take breakfast seriously: Albi in São Bento, Etma Bakery in Campo de Ourique and Augusto Lisboa in Graça. Albi folds fried eggs into tortilla and serves huevos rancheros, Etma scrambles eggs with parmesan, and Augusto keeps to toasts and bowls. All three stop serving in the afternoon, so go in the morning.

A husband and wife run Albi, a breakfast room on a slope above the city. Everyone wants the window seats looking downhill. The menu is short: fried eggs folded into tortilla, huevos rancheros, beetroot cured salmon, and coffee from a Barcelona roaster. The banana bread sells out long before the kitchen stops.

Eat· São Bento · €€

Albi

Hours: Mon–Sun 08:30–16:00

Address: R. Quintinha 2, 1200-033 Lisboa, Portugal

Etma is a corner bakery with a linen-skirted counter, hand-thrown ceramics and loaves lined up in the window. Hanna and Misha bake the bread daily. Until mid-afternoon you can order scrambled eggs with parmesan or avocado toast, plus almond croissants and chocolate babka buns. The beans are Colombian; they taste best as filter. Tables go early. A babka and a coffee outside is a good fallback.

Eat· Campo de Ourique · €€

Etma Bakery

Hours: Mon–Sun 08:30–16:00

Address: R. Silva Carvalho 64B, 1250-255 Lisboa, Portugal

A pink floor, fur-covered chairs and a chandelier that has no business being there fill Augusto Lisboa, a few minutes downhill from the Graça viewpoint. Toasts and bowls range from avocado to ham to yogurt with fruit. The brunch set of coffee, toast and fruit costs less than ordering the three separately. On weekends, late morning means a wait on the pavement, so arrive early.

Eat· Graça · €€€

Augusto Lisboa

Hours: Mon–Fri 08:30–16:00 · Sat–Sun 08:30–17:00

Address: R. de Santa M.nha 26, 1100-491 Lisboa, Portugal

Where can you get good coffee with breakfast in Lisbon?

The Coffee Corner in Campo de Ourique is a small specialty counter where espresso and filter get the attention, with a different filter on each week. Hello, Kristof in Santos pours carefully sourced coffee at marble tables. Albi in São Bento uses beans from a Barcelona roaster, and Etma’s Colombian beans show best as filter.

The Coffee Corner has stayed deliberately unhurried since it opened. Espresso and filter come first, with tea, sandwiches and the day’s pastries alongside. Drink the week’s filter black before deciding it needs milk. By your second visit, whoever is at the machine will probably know your order.

Eat· Campo de Ourique · €€

The Coffee Corner

Hours: Mon 08:30–16:30 · Tue 09:00–16:30 · Wed 08:30–16:30 · Thu closed · Fri 09:00–16:30 · Sat 09:30–15:00 · Sun 09:30–14:00

Address: R. Almeida e Sousa 6a, 1250-152 Lisboa, Portugal

Hello, Kristof serves carefully sourced coffee with eggs, pastries and open sandwiches on good bread. Grab a window table and a magazine from the rack and a flat white can last a while. The crowd leans towards designers and creatives.

Eat· Santos · €€

Hello, Kristof

Hours: Mon–Sun 08:45–15:45

Address: R. do Poço dos Negros 103, 1200-336 Lisboa, Portugal

Which Lisbon breakfast spot suits which plan?

Our picks run from Arroios and Graça to Santos and Campo de Ourique, so where you are staying narrows the choice as much as your appetite. The bakeries work for a quick pastry on your way somewhere. The sit-down rooms are for a slow morning and a second coffee. Our table sorts each pick by neighbourhood and by what it does best, so you can find the one closest to your day.

These places are small, and several fill up or sell out by late morning. Make breakfast the first thing you do, not something you squeeze in later. The neighbourhoods are spread across the city, and plenty of them sit on slopes. Pick the one or two nearest to where you’re staying and add a walk. Crossing town for a pastry isn’t worth it.

Written by Tan (tantrionfi). Places suggested by people who live in Lisbon. How we choose places

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