Burro occupies a spot in Floral Court, a peaceful courtyard in Covent Garden that most crowds pass without noticing, and it is the restaurant a chef opened as their own after years in the kitchen at Trullo. The room mixes a rural Irish kitchen with a mid-century Italian bistro. Its name is Italian for butter, which runs through the cooking: pasta is made fresh each day, and the vitello al burro is a Milanese-style veal cutlet that is fried and then given a last turn in butter. On warm days lunch on the terrace is unusually calm for the area, with diners who take their time and have booked ahead.
If the weather is warm, ask for a seat on the terrace when you reserve: it is the first part of the restaurant to fill, and those outdoor tables are what make the trip worthwhile. Centre the meal on the fettuccine, served with a ragu of duck and porcini.