Concettina ai Tre Santi belongs to a family that has made pizza in the Sanità district for generations, and the current pizzaiolo has steered that inheritance somewhere quietly experimental. Toppings draw on the landscape of Campania with real conviction rather than for show. The best-known pie carries a genovese ragù of onion and beef cooked down slowly, set on a base that has risen just right.
People who live in Naples have a tip for Concettina ai Tre Santi, and it is in the Locally app.