Its pizzas come out soft at the centre and with real char on them, and plenty of Neapolitans point to its margherita as the plain benchmark for what the dish ought to taste like. Orders go over the counter, tables turn over quickly, and the crowd is made up largely of taxi drivers and people working the market.
If the plan is to keep walking while eating, ask for the pizza al portafoglio. People who live here suggest a weekday lunch, since by evening the queue along Via Nazionale runs beyond the corner.