Trattoria Pennestri

Warm and modern, Trattoria Pennestri is a restaurant in the Ostiense district of Rome where the cooking keeps the classic Roman repertoire at its centre and works in seasonal produce bought at the market. The style stays plain and honest while leaving room for some invention on the plate. Wines are chosen with care, and the list gives space to bottles from the surrounding area and to labels that are rarely seen. The mood is relaxed but polished, the sort of room designed to make guests feel at ease while eating Roman food.

Among the Roman classics on the menu, the dish that sets this trattoria apart is rigatoni con la pajata. The chef stirs colatura di alici, an extract of anchovies, into the sauce. On paper the combination sounds daring, yet that extra layer of umami turns a dish from the Roman tradition into something that tastes new. Elsewhere the menu sticks to classic Roman dishes built around seasonal produce from the market, and the wine list leans on local and little-known labels. To end the meal, order the chocolate mousse served with olive oil and bread.