Pavé

On a quiet side street in Porta Venezia, a group of friends set up Pavé as a bakery and café around a long shared table and shelves stacked with naturally leavened loaves. Cream-filled brioche and maritozzi draw a steady crowd at the weekend, and the espresso is well made. For many in the city it set the standard for a Milanese breakfast that sits apart from both hotel dining rooms and the neighbourhood bar.

Get there early, since the seats are taken fast once the morning gets going. Ask for the brioche vuota and have it filled with the house crema when you order, rather than picking one that was filled beforehand.