Tram Tram

In San Lorenzo, Tram Tram is a family trattoria where one member of the household cooks and another looks after the tables. The food draws on the traditions of Rome and on the home cooking of Puglia, and the menu follows whatever the market offers, with a hand-chalked blackboard listing the produce delivered that same morning. It sits well away from the routes most tourists take.

Order the anchovies, fried, which come out surprisingly light. And if rigatoni con la pajata turn up among the day’s dishes, get them, since what the kitchen serves shifts with the market and they won’t always be there.