Vetro

Vetro is a small bar in Della Vittoria, set in a room that used to be a grocery: the shop’s Panetteria sign still hangs above the entrance, from when local children bought pizza bianca there. The same owners also run a kiosk on the beach at Fregene. Their wine is artisanal with a Mediterranean slant, and sfuso, wine sold loose, is poured alongside the bottles. The counter holds torta rustica, vegetables from the grill, vitello tonnato and eggs dressed with mayonnaise. People who live or work nearby drop in at lunch, and many return late in the afternoon, once wine replaces food.

Skip a bottle and ask the staff for the sfuso. Vetro was conceived around loose wine, and it is what the regulars here tend to order, poured alongside artisanal labels that lean toward the Mediterranean. If a calmer visit suits you better, come at lunch, when people from the surrounding homes and nearby offices stop in to eat from a counter of vitello tonnato, torta rustica, eggs topped with mayonnaise and vegetables from the grill. Evenings are another matter: the room has very little seating, and what there is gets taken quickly.