Trattoria Masuelli San Marco

Trattoria Masuelli San Marco is a family trattoria in Porta Romana, where the same household has kept the kitchen to a Milanese and Piedmontese repertoire that has hardly shifted over the decades. Ossobuco arrives with risotto, the vitello tonnato is prepared in the traditional manner, and the wine list has genuine range. Wood panelling lines the dining room, which keeps the feel of an older Milan held in place.

Tables here go quickly, so reserve well before your visit. If cassoeula is what brings you, phone first when winter comes round: the kitchen serves it only once the weather has turned cold.